Introduction

With this, our sixth issue of CuiZine, we continue to explore Canada's varied foodways, focusing closely on the elements that prompt us to change our food choices and practices over time. Sometimes change comes about because of creative innovation, like the addition of foie gras to the iconic staple of Quebec cuisine, poutine, which has become one of Martin Picard’s signature dishes at Au Pied de Cochon. Catherine Turgeon-Gouin’s article on Picard's restaurant and gastronomic project addresses the way Picard is telling the story of a regional cuisine that is nothing short of mythmaking. Food gives us pleasure, brings us together in ways of which we are not always entirely conscious; and food's potential to bring intense pleasure finds moving expression here in Phedra Deonarine’s “Pelau.” But sometimes food choices are entirely conscious, directed by the head rather than the heart, in ways glimpsed in Kate Hargreaves’ witty poem, “Paper Ladder.” At other times, however, change in food practices is not a question of choice at all—as when food allergies loom large, as they increasingly do on the contemporary landscape. Sue Elmslie’s poem reminds us of one powerful motivator: that food can and should be feared as well as enjoyed. Although the reality of this globalized moment is that seasons no longer dictate what foods can be put on our table, the revival of interest in food markets has prompted a renewed appreciation for the locally-sourced food that is very much influenced by season and the taste of place. Lenore Newman in her visual Pecha Kucha photographic exploration of Montreal's Atwater market reminds us of the powerful impact of the seasons on food supply in this northern part of the world. (Readers of Newman's essay might also be interested to revisit Sarah Musgrave’s illustrated tour of another of Montreal’s food markets, Marché Jean Talon, in CuiZine 1.1). In addition, Deborah Hemming's interview with Pete Hackett, who produces wine in Nova Scotia's Gaspereau Valley, speaks directly about the influence of place on the taste of his grapes and wine. Appreciation for the local emerges too from Catherine Mah’s interview with Lauren Baker, who reveals how action at a local level in Toronto has brought about real and positive change and the implementation of policy. Readers can hear more about Toronto's mindful foodways from Carolyn Levy's review of Edible City: Toronto’s Food from Farm to Fork, edited by Christina Palassio and Alana Wilcox. Our Petites Madeleines section features two short works of creative writing that look to Canada's Maritime provinces, while also challenging our expectations about regional foodways. Judy Corser ponders with affection the ways of Prince Edward Island—with days filled by multiple welcome and welcoming meals, five rather than the three or four she might have expected, and with names that catch her off guard. Guilia de Gasperi sheds light on the Italian foodways of Cape Breton that served to make her feel at home when away from home. Challenging reader expectations also emerges as a central theme in Nancy Pagh’s book of poems, No Sweeter Fat, here reviewed by Laura Cameron. While the contributors mentioned so far look to reasons for shifting and distinctive food tastes and practices, other contributions to this issue look at indicators and signs of pivotal change and food choices over time. For example, Fiona Lucas uses the lens of the kitchen sink to identify pivotal moments of technological innovation, but also to explore the symbolic implications of cleanliness. (Readers interested in the latter topic might also be curious to look to Alexia Moyer's article “All Kinds of Dirty” in CuiZine 2.1.) Catherine Bradley's …