Book reviews

The New Best of Better Baking.com, Marcy Goldman, Whitecap Books, 2009, 324 pagesA Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking, The 10th Anniversary Edition, Marcy Goldman, Whitecap Books, 2009, 403 pages[Notice]

  • Kathy Cohen

Full disclosure: I am the owner of a baking facility and I own close to 200 cookbooks, many of which I have barely touched. I have a filing cabinet filled with colour-coded folders with at least 2500 recipe ideas eagerly torn out from magazines that I will never in my lifetime make even a minor dent in. I find that too many cookbooks read like dictionaries and I will never buy a cookbook with just the token amount of photographs. I am in constant search of inspiration but I am jaded and finicky when it comes down to choosing a recipe to try. So when two more baking cookbooks by Marcy Goldman arrived on my doorstep a few weeks ago, I was at first hesitant, but then I saw that half-full glass: here were hundreds of new recipes from a famous Montreal baker from which to draw inspiration. After these preliminary introductions, the books take divergent courses. A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking first tackles all you need to know about bread and is then divided into chapters based on the various Jewish Holidays. In each chapter, you will find traditional baking recipes for these stomach-stuffing events. Thankfully, for those of us more than a few years out of religious school, there are reminders as to why recipes that include dairy foods, such as “Blueberries ’n Cream and Lemon Lime Curd Tart” (314), are associated with Shavuot and why recipes with fruits and nuts, like “Pomegranate and Sour Cherry Mandelbrot” (184), with Sukkot. Before tackling any of the recipes in this book, I recommend having a good supply of vegetable oil on hand because many Jewish baking recipes use oil in place of butter in order to abide by kashruth laws prohibiting the ingestion of milk products after a meal of meat. As a bonus with this 10th anniversary edition of A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking, there is an added chapter of savoury dishes, which includes everything from brisket to tzimmes. It just goes to prove that bakers can excel at cooking too. All the recipes in The New Best of Better Baking.com and A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking begin with a preamble that often includes a personal story. There are cookies that were a favourite of her sons’ baseball teams and recipes invented during her formative years as baker. Such preambles make for an enjoyable read. I now feel like I could easily engage the author in conversation should I bump into her in the flour aisle of the local grocery store. So where is my call to action, so often lacking and resulting in the multitude of untested recipes stacked up in my office? It is, quite simply, in Goldman’s recipe titles. From The New Best of Better Baking.com, “Lawsuit Buttermilk Muffins” (181) are hard to resist. Any recipe worth suing over is worth my time and these muffins do not disappoint. The recipe is flexible enough that you can make it less sweet by leaving out the streusel topping, and there are suggestions for alternate fillings if you prefer, such as rhubarb-apple or blueberry-lemon. Being a chocolate addict, it was hard to resist the “Chocolate Brioche Buns” (215). Fresh from the oven and upon first bite, hot, dark chocolate oozes from the middle. “Chocolate-Sour Cream Bundt Cake” (285) did not turn out quite as well. The recipe produced too much batter for my bundt pan and the cake was undercooked, even after the requisite tests for doneness. In A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking, a recipe described by the author …

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