Cooking the books

Farine Purity Livre de Cuisine/ Le Livre de Recettes Farine Purity, Western Canada Flour Mills Company, Southam Press Limited, Montreal & Toronto, 1925, 161 p.350 Recettes de Cuisine, Madamoiselle Jeanne Anctil, Librairie Beauchemin, Limitée, Montreal, 1924, 300 p.[Notice]

  • Eileen S. DeMarco

To whet the academic and culinary appetites of CuiZine readers, an evaluation of two interwar cookbooks, Livre de Recettes Farine Purity and 350 Recettes de Cuisine, is served. This intellectual feast will consist of four courses: as an hors d’oeuvre, a description of the texts; as an appetizer, an analysis of three primary aspects for comparison; for plat principal, a description of the “bake off,” pitting against each other recipes for the same item from each book; as a dessert, a summary of the “taste off,” including observations from members of the tasting panel. The Livre de Recettes Farine Purity is a booklet of one hundred sixty pages produced by the Western Canada Flour Mills Company in 1925. This particular version sports a red cover with gold writing and the company’s seal. On the cover, the title reads: FARINE PURITY LIVRE DE CUISINE as opposed to LE LIVRE DE RECETTES FARINE PURITY as on the title page. This collection is at least the second one of its kind offered by the company as the title page affirms the booklet “contient les meilleurs recettes de notre dernier livre auxquelles ont été ajoutées les recettes soigneusement choisies et vérifiées d’experts.” The index lists 32 chapters including informational sections on household tips, cooking times, and weights and measures. Although the booklet was produced by a flour mill company, recipes for dishes that do not require flour are plentiful. These include, for example, Ponche aux fruits, Chutney aux tomates, and Salade d’huitres [sic]. The booklet’s introductory pages feature illustrations of the Western Canada Flour Mills Company’s “installation à Winnepeg” that boasts a “capacité quotidienne de 5,000 barils” as well as a montage of photographs of the company’s “laboratoire.” Also included here are coupons and ordering instructions enabling consumers to send copies of the booklet to friends. Clearly, the recipe collection is a marketing tool providing a means for the Western Canada Flour Mills Company to trumpet Canadian wheat production in general and the superior quality of Farine Purity in particular. In the chapter devoted to “Pain, Galettes et Pain de Fantaisie,” the Canadian housewife learns: “...IL A ETE PROUVE QUE LE PAIN FAIT AVEC DE LA FARINE PURITY EST UNE NOURRITURE PLUS PARFAITE ET PLUS SOUTENANTE POUR LE CORPS QUE TOUT AUTRE ALIMENT.” This sentence is written entirely in capital letters without accents in the text. The header on every page of the booklet reminds the home cook the recipes are provided by Farine Purity while the footer of each page confirms that Farine Purity produces “MEILLEUR PAIN – DÉLICIEUSE PÂTISSERIE.” By furnishing such a comprehensive collection of recipes that also includes general, useful information for both the novice and experienced menagère, the Western Canada Flour Mills Company sought to forge a lasting partnership with Canadian female consumers. The book’s definition of “la cuisine” further highlights the moral imperatives of the devoted housewife. “La cuisine” is an art that requires choosing ingredients, discerning their qualities, and judiciously using herbs and seasonings tastefully, to conform to the rules of hygiene and promote health. Descriptions of various types of dishes, advice about cuts of meat, game, poultry and the selection of other ingredients, as well as an alphabetized glossary of key terms follow. The numbered recipes are divided into eleven general categories. The last section features “12 Menus de Cuisine Fine.” Interspersed in several sections of the text are illustrations, including photographs of featured dishes, line drawings of kitchen tools, and photographs of various facilities …

Parties annexes

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