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Challenges and Opportunities in Vermont

  • Roger Allbee

Corps de l’article

Vermont has demonstrated over the years, and with more attention recently, that it embodies a “taste of place.” The Vermont name in itself is recognized for its quality agricultural products, whether its maple syrup, its many farmstead and cheddar cheeses, its fresh apples and related products, or its commitment to small farms that keep heirloom foods alive, from Calais flint corn to Tamworth pigs. Culinary tourism introduces these foods to people who are exploring the many different things our state has to offer. At the same time, a strong movement to buy local, one of the strongest in the United States, connects Vermonters to the tastes of their home. In fact, a recent study showed that a working landscape was the Vermont value shared by the most people statewide. [1]

Vermont’s existing foundation in establishing taste of place is not a reason to continue with business as usual. We need to ask questions for the future. For example, how do we encourage the development of unique products that represent a shared culture and a connection to the land? Is a reputation for high quality enough, or do we need a better way to certify the quality of the finest Vermont products? How do we understand our food region—can it reach beyond the boundaries of a small state like Vermont to include parts of New Hampshire, New York, Massachusetts, and Quebec? How do researchers, policymakers, and engaged consumers work with farmers to build a strong sense of place in our food?

Answering these questions is not a quick process. We have considered them at length over the last year and I see three paths emerging that will shape what the taste of place looks like in Vermont in the future.

The first is an understanding of how terroir, as it is practiced in Europe and other regions, shows us a new way to think about “local” foods. Local does not have to be measured in miles from producer to consumer, although this approach is certainly a valuable one. Local can also mean foods that reflect a unique local character, that tell the story of a place, bringing the tastes, history, and culture of a region to the consumer. Following this path builds a new language for marketing Vermont foods and brings a new depth to the experience we offer to visitors.

The second is the pursuit of a Protected Designation of Origin system that mirrors the labels available in Europe and recently introduced in Quebec. Pursuing this goal is a much more technical process. It requires farmers, researchers, and policymakers to work closely together to determine whether the types of authentication and labelling done abroad can succeed in Vermont. We have not yet made that determination—but we have test projects and studies in place to get us the information we need to decide on the next steps.

Finally, taste of place represents a new level of Vermont’s engagement with people producing high quality food worldwide. We have already had wonderful information exchanges with Quebec, France, and Spain. These partnerships will only grow in the future.

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